Welcome. Let's get your files back.

Your Zilkee comes in two parts that work together:

  1. The converter — the small device in your box. It connects your old drive to your computer.
  2. The Zilkee Recovery Wizard — a free program you put on your computer. It walks you through every step and finds your files.

The converter connects your drive. The wizard does the work. You need both.

Take your time. Each step is short. If you get stuck, there is a help link in the wizard on every screen.


Step 1 — Get the free Zilkee Recovery Wizard

You may have gotten an email with a download link. If you did not, or you can't find it, that's fine. Here is how to get it:

  1. On your computer, open your web browser (Chrome, Edge, Safari, or Firefox).
  2. In the address bar at the top, type the address for your computer and press Enter. Use only the one that matches your computer:

If you have a Windows PC, type:
download.zilkee.com/wizard/win

If you have a Mac, type:
download.zilkee.com/mac

  1. The program will start downloading on its own.
  2. When it finishes, open the file you downloaded to install it.

If Windows shows a blue warning that says "Windows protected your PC," this is normal. Click More info, then click Run anyway. The program is safe and is signed by Zilkee.

If you have a Mac and it won't open, right-click the Zilkee app and choose Open. Then click Open again.

Once it's installed, open the Zilkee Recovery Wizard. It will ask for the email address you used when you bought your Zilkee. Type it in and continue.


Step 2 — Find out what kind of drive you have

The wizard will ask what your drive looks like. Turn your drive over and look at the connectors on the end. Match it to one of these:

  • SATA — has a flat, L-shaped connector. Most drives made after about 2005.
  • IDE — small — a laptop drive with two rows of small pins.
  • IDE — large — a desktop drive with two rows of small pins.
  • M.2 — a thin green stick about the size of a stick of gum. This kind needs a different Zilkee adapter, not the converter. The wizard will help you with that.

If your drive is still inside an external case (a portable drive with its own USB cable), you'll need to open the plastic case and take the drive out first. Most cases pop open with a flat tool like a credit card. Do not force it. If it won't open, contact support before you keep going.


Step 3 — Connect your drive to the converter

The wizard shows you the exact steps for your drive. Here's the short version:

For a SATA drive:

  1. Plug the thin L-shaped data cable into the matching slot on your drive. It only fits one way.
  2. Plug the wider L-shaped power cable into the slot next to it.
  3. For laptop drives and SSDs, you do not need the 4-pin power cable. Leave it unplugged.

For a small (laptop) IDE drive:

  1. Line up the 44-pin connector with the pins on your drive.
  2. Press it on gently and evenly. The pins bend easily, so go slow. If it feels wrong, stop and line it up again.

For a large (desktop) IDE drive:

  1. Connect the wide ribbon cable to the drive.
  2. Connect the 4-pin power cable too. The drive will not turn on without it.
  3. Check the small plastic block on the back is set to "Master" or "Single." If you're not sure, contact support first.

Step 4 — Turn on the power

  1. Plug the power adapter into the converter and into a wall outlet.
  2. Flip the power switch to ON. A blue light should come on.
  3. Plug the USB cable from the converter into your computer.

No blue light? Try this:

  • Unplug the power adapter, wait 10 seconds, and plug it back in firmly at both ends.
  • Make sure the switch clicked all the way to ON.
  • Try a different wall outlet.

If the light still won't come on, the unit may be faulty. The wizard has a button to request a replacement or refund.


Step 5 — Check that your drive is working

With the power on and the USB connected, look and listen:

  • You may hear or feel the drive spin up — a soft hum or a light buzz.
  • Your computer may make a "new device" sound.
  • A new drive may appear on your screen.

What are you noticing?

  • It hums or my computer made a sound — good, keep going.
  • I hear clicking or grinding — turn the drive off now. Clicking means the drive is physically damaged, and running it more can make things worse. This needs a recovery lab (see the bottom of this sheet).
  • Nothing at all — re-check your cables and push them all the way in. For large IDE drives, make sure the 4-pin power cable is connected. Try a different USB port. Then check again.
  • It says "BitLocker" — the drive is locked with a password. You'll need the original recovery key to open it. It's usually saved in the owner's Microsoft account at account.microsoft.com/devices/recoverykey.

Step 6 — Let the wizard find your files

Once the drive is working, the wizard takes over. You don't need to go looking through your computer yourself.

  • If your files are still on the drive, the wizard shows them to you so you can pick the ones you want to keep.
  • If your files were deleted, erased, or the drive was formatted, the wizard can run a deeper scan to look for them. This can take a few hours. You can leave it running. Don't unplug the drive while it's working.

Just follow the wizard from here. When it finds your files, it helps you save them to your computer so they're safe.


If we can't help with your drive

Some drives can't be recovered with the converter:

  • Your drive makes clicking or grinding sounds. This usually means physical damage, which needs a specialist with lab equipment. We recommend:

Yellow Brick Data Recovery
214 N Main St STE C, Buhler, KS 67522
Phone: (620) 615-6836
yellowbrickdatarecovery.com

They take drives by mail, so you can use them no matter where you live.

  • Your drive is a phone, tablet, M.2 stick, or a locked drive you don't have the key for. The converter can't help with these. The wizard will explain your options.

If you are having problems using your Zilkee, please contact us at support@zilkee.com.